10 Budapest Hotels Plumbed Into Their Own Thermal Spring

There are around 120 thermal springs under Budapest, producing something in the region of 70 million litres of hot mineral water a day. The Romans built on them, the Ottomans built domed bathhouses over them in the sixteenth century, and the Habsburgs built the enormous neo-baroque complexes that the city is now known for. It is the only capital in the world that sits on a working geothermal field of this scale.

Most visitors experience that as a day trip to Széchenyi with a queue and a locker. A handful of hotels are connected to the source directly, which is a different proposition entirely.

What a thermal connection actually means

Water drawn from a well beneath the building, at temperature, into the hotel's own pools. Not a heated swimming pool, and not a spa that buys in salts. The mineral content is high enough that the water has a smell and a feel to it, and the temperature is what the ground gives you.

The practical value is timing. The public baths are extraordinary and they are also busy, ticketed and finite. A hotel with its own thermal water means you use it at seven in the morning and again at eleven at night, in a bathrobe, with nobody in it.

The second group below is for the other approach: staying within a short walk of the great public baths and treating them as the destination they are.

The ten below are grouped accordingly.

Connected to their own thermal water

Corinthia Budapest is built around a restored 1886 bathhouse, discovered during renovation and brought back into use, with the original pool now the centre of a large spa. It is the most complete hotel in the city and the water is genuine.

Continental Hotel Budapest occupies a building on the site of a historic bath complex with a thermal spa in the lower floors, a rooftop and rooms that are among the best value in the centre.

Ensana Thermal Margaret Island sits on Margaret Island, the park in the middle of the Danube, with its own thermal wells, medical spa facilities and no traffic anywhere near it. It is the quietest place to stay in Budapest.

Verdi Budapest Aquincum occupies a site in Óbuda above Roman ruins with thermal wells beneath it, a spa and considerably lower rates than the central hotels. It is twenty minutes north of the centre.

Within a walk of the great baths

The alternative: a superb hotel in the centre, with Széchenyi, Rudas, Gellért or Lukács a short tram or walk away.

Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest occupies the 1906 art nouveau palace at the Pest end of the Chain Bridge, with a glazed atrium, ironwork and mosaics that make it the most beautiful building any hotel in the city holds. The Danube rooms face the castle.

Matild Palace, a Luxury Collection Hotel sits on the Danube corso with a restored 1902 interior, a rooftop bar looking across at the castle and the most polished service in the country.

Párisi Udvar Hotel Budapest, part of Hyatt occupies a former 1913 bank and shopping arcade with a stained-glass hall that is a protected monument. The building is the reason to book it.

W Budapest sits near the basilica with a rooftop pool and bar, contemporary rooms and the liveliest ground floor of this group.

Aria Hotel Budapest by Library Hotel Collection occupies a position facing the basilica with a rooftop terrace, small design-led rooms and the best value among the central boutique hotels.

Kempinski Hotel Corvinus Budapest sits on Erzsébet Square with large rooms, a spa and a straightforward luxury operation, minutes from the Danube and the ruin bars.

What we have left off

The Buda hill hotels above the castle are excluded. They have gardens, quiet and views over the city, and they sit a funicular or a long walk above everything, which in a city this walkable is a considerable cost for a view you can get by crossing a bridge.

What to do

Do at least two baths and make them different. Széchenyi is the enormous neo-baroque one with the outdoor pools and the chess players. Rudas is a genuine sixteenth-century Ottoman bath with an octagonal pool under a dome and a rooftop tub over the Danube. Lukács is where locals go.

Walk the Danube at night. The parliament, the castle and the Chain Bridge are floodlit and the corso is the best evening walk in central Europe.

Go to a ruin bar in the seventh district, which is an abandoned building filled with mismatched furniture and is much better than that description suggests.

Eat properly: goulash is a soup here, not a stew, and the market hall, the Jewish quarter's restaurants and the newer places in the fifth district are all worth booking.

Take the Danube up to Szentendre for a half day.

Practical notes

Ferenc Liszt airport is 30 to 40 minutes from the centre by taxi or the 100E bus.

April to June and September to October are ideal. July and August are hot and busy. Winter is cold and it is the best time for the thermal baths, particularly the outdoor pools at Széchenyi with steam coming off them in the snow.

Buy bath tickets online to skip the queue. Bring flip-flops and a towel or expect to rent both.

Questions people actually ask

Is a hotel thermal spa as good as the public baths?

Different rather than better. The public baths are the architecture and the atmosphere; the hotel water is the convenience and the emptiness. Do both.

Buda or Pest?

Pest for almost everything: the restaurants, the baths, the nightlife, the walking. Buda for the castle and quiet, which is a day rather than a base.

Is Budapest good value?

Yes, still, and noticeably more so than Vienna or Prague for both hotels and food.

How many nights?

Three. Two for the city, and a third because the baths deserve unhurried mornings.

If you only book one

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