10 Napa and Sonoma Hotels on the Valley Floor Rather Than the Ridge

Napa Valley is about fifty kilometres long and five wide, running north from the bay at Napa to Calistoga, with two mountain ranges enclosing it. That shape produces the wine and it also produces the choice: everything here is either on the valley floor or up the sides of it.

The floor is where the highway, the towns, the tasting rooms and most of the restaurants are. Highway 29 on the west and the Silverado Trail on the east run the length of the valley, and in the harvest months both are slow.

The hillsides are cooler, quieter, above the fog line, and have the views. They also commit you to driving down for every meal and tasting, on winding roads, in a wine region, which is a consideration that resolves itself into hiring a driver.

Napa or Sonoma

They adjoin and they are different.

Napa is compact, polished and expensive: cabernet, formal tasting rooms with appointments, and the highest concentration of luxury hotels in American wine country.

Sonoma is four times the size, more agricultural and considerably less formal, with pinot and chardonnay in the cooler western reaches, and a working-town feel in Healdsburg and Sonoma itself. Rates are lower and the tasting rooms are friendlier.

Most people choose Napa for a first trip and Sonoma for a second, or split the week and drive between them, which takes about forty minutes.

The ten below are grouped by which and by elevation.

Napa hillsides

Above the valley floor. Views, quiet, and a drive to everything.

Auberge Du Soleil occupies an olive grove on the eastern slope above Rutherford with terraced cottages, a Michelin-starred restaurant on a terrace looking across the whole valley and the best view in Napa. It is the definitive hillside property.

Meadowood Napa Valley sits on 250 acres of wooded hillside near St Helena with cottages, a croquet lawn, a golf course and a level of privacy that no valley-floor hotel achieves.

Montage Healdsburg occupies a hillside above Healdsburg in Sonoma with contemporary buildings among oaks, a spa and views over the Russian River valley. It is the newest of the hillside properties.

Napa valley floor

Among the vines, close to the tasting rooms and the restaurants.

Solage, Auberge Collection sits in Calistoga at the northern end with cottages around geothermal bathing pools, a mud bath spa and a relaxed tone that is unusual at this price.

Four Seasons Resort Napa Valley occupies a large site near Calistoga with a spa fed by hot springs, several pools and the most complete facilities in the valley. It is the family answer.

Napa Valley Hotel & Suites sits in St Helena on the main street with a spa, a pool and the shortest walk to tasting rooms and restaurants of anything on this list.

Stanly Ranch, Auberge Collection occupies a working farm estate at the southern end near Napa town with a spa, a winery on the property and views across the Carneros vineyards.

Carneros Resort and Spa sits in Carneros in a village of cottages with three pools, a good restaurant and rates below the northern valley.

Sonoma

Lower key, lower rates, and a different set of grapes.

Hotel Healdsburg occupies a position on the Healdsburg plaza with a spa, a pool and the best walkable position in Sonoma wine country. The town's restaurants are outside the door.

MacArthur Place Hotel & Spa sits on six acres in the town of Sonoma with gardens, a spa and a restrained interior. It is the quietest of the town-centre options.

What we have left off

The hotels along the Highway 29 corridor in Napa town itself are excluded, and they are the cheapest way to sleep in the valley. They sit at the southern end among strip development, forty minutes from the northern wineries in harvest traffic, which is where most of the appointments are.

What to do

Book tastings in advance. Most Napa wineries now require appointments and the good ones fill weeks ahead. Three a day is the maximum that anyone actually enjoys.

Hire a driver. This is not an indulgence in a wine region; it is the only sensible arrangement and the roads are winding.

Go up in a balloon at dawn over the valley, which is the standard thing to do and genuinely worth it.

Eat. The valley has one of the highest concentrations of serious restaurants in America and the famous ones book months out.

For a change of pace, drive west over the hills from Sonoma to the coast at Bodega Bay, which is an hour and a different world.

Practical notes

San Francisco is about ninety minutes from Napa town, Oakland similar, and both are easier than they sound. There is no useful public transport within the valley.

Harvest runs from roughly late August into October and it is the busiest and most expensive period, with the valley at its best. Spring is green and quiet. Winter is wet, cheap and the tasting rooms are empty, which some people prefer.

Summer on the valley floor regularly exceeds 35 degrees; the hillsides are meaningfully cooler.

Questions people actually ask

Hillside or valley floor?

Hillside for views and quiet, valley floor for convenience. Either way you are driving to tastings, so the floor's advantage is smaller than it looks.

Napa or Sonoma?

Napa for cabernet, polish and the best hotels. Sonoma for lower prices, a friendlier tasting culture and more variety.

How many wineries a day?

Three. Two if you are eating properly in between.

How many nights?

Four. Three in one valley and a night in the other, or four in Napa with a Sonoma day.

If you only book one

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